Where to Eat

Where to Eat

Banana da Terra — the restaurant most often named when a foodie asks. Chef Ana Bueno's caiçara-meets-refined menu turns local fish, banana-da-terra, and cachaça into multi-course dinners. Reserve ahead.

Quintal das Letras — garden-set, seafood-forward, with a wine list that's unusually well-chosen for the region. Great for quieter dinners.

Armazém Paraty — the chef-run bar where locals go for the moqueca. Casual, loud, cash-friendly.

Caminho do Ouro — along the old gold-route trail, a handful of open-air kitchens serve simple fish stews to hikers. Our favorite is the one with the clay oven just past the first waterfall.

Beach kiosks — on Jabaquara and Praia Grande you'll find beach kiosks run by families. Ask for fried fish with rice, pirão and a cold Itaipava. Don't expect English menus; do expect kindness.

Café Pingado — the morning stop for espresso and pão de queijo, a block off the main square.

Sorveteria do Armando — artisanal ice cream with local tropical flavors. Our vote: cupuaçu, then a second scoop of tapioca.